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“WINEMAKERS don’t sleep during vintage, do they? There is so much to think about, so much to know, so much to do.

It’s 9am on a sunny summer day, February 19, to be exact. In the back of the Margan’s winery complex just a stone’s throw west of Broke, a small team is busy unloading a four-tonne bin of just-picked shiraz grapes, guiding them through the chute where the grapes, skin and juice, are cooled and pumped into vast storage silos.

Andrew Margan – vigneron, winemaker, businessman – is in the middle of it all, pushing and prodding, talking and watching.”